Batboard

I have read several of the posts, and just want to make sure I have the concept. I'm installing a new console that will have 2 Motorola CDM1250, 3 cig lighter outlets, 3 rocker switches to control one led dash light, and two alternating flashers. Also 100 watt siren, and a Uniden Scanner. I have a fuse block with six positions with blade fuses (all fuses rated up to 20 amp, 15amp for radios) to power individual components. I was going to run a #10 to the block from the battery, and use #12 for all the connections. Is this a safe bet? Do I need a larger ga main wire from the battery?

Can I tie all 3 cig outlets power wires together and tie on one terminal of the block, or do they each need individual power sources?

This is my first install, and is a really nice Troy console.. Please be nice to the rookie!
Thanks guys!!!
Brent

The "missing link" in figuring out the current requirements for your setup is how much current you'll want to draw from those three lighter outlets. With that info included you can then approximate the total current (or maybe the average current) you're going to have to pull from the battery, and that will tell you the size of the main power wire from the battery.

I will hardly use those outlets. The occasional cell phone charging, etc. I have them there in case I ever need them.
Thanks!

Yikes...Please help! I need to get this install done by the weekend.
Any other ideas or suggestions?


Thanks!

I would bump the main to a fused 8g for just the switch box then fuse each light off the switch at an approprate ampreage. The siren I would fuse off the battery and use an ignition fed relay to go on and off with the car power, same with the radios. The PI's have a battery and igniton drop on the passenger side dash. I use those for lower amperage circuts such as flashlights and lighter plugs. I also run individual ground wire to the body and ground it on the passenger side kick panel

I have been upfitting Police/fire vehicles 12 yrs and that is the simple way i have found

Ok, so I need to use relays? I'm lost, but here is what I was going to do.

* 8GA main power from battery directly to the console.
* Attach the power line to a Buss fuse block pic below:


* Was then going to attach 10GA or 12 GA from fuse terminals and run to radios, switches, lights and siren, and 3 cig power outlets.
* Ground all items to Crown Vic's ground terminals at passenger kick plate.
* Ideally, I would like it all to go live only when the ignition is on. I assume then I need relays to accomplish that?

Help..So confused...I just don't want a fire!
Thanks!

You can do it that way. If you want every thing to go on with the key, You will need a heavy duty relay 75a its not hard to hook up. you need battery, Ground and Igniton. Make sure you fuse the 8g near the battery. Last thing you want is a live 8g with a short running along your fender. You can hook the CDM's up to the fuse block you have, Or keep them directly and use the ignition kit small20g with a 4 amp fuse to the aux ignition under the glove box that will turn on and off the radios with the car.

So how does that work? The main to a 75A relay, and then to the fuse block, and divide it from there?
Let's try to think I do not know what I'm doing (which I'm finding out I don't)!

CDM's to the wiring up under the glove box then, and not to the fuse block? The 4A fuse inline? and other end to the aux ignition?

AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

That's a good plan if you want everything to turn on/off with the key.

Batt - main fuse - relay controlled by key - Buss fuse holder - devices

OR

Put in two fuse holders - one switched and one hot. Put the relay in the console to feed the switched fuse holder.

Batt - main fuse - hot fuse holder in console and to relay controlled by key - switched fuse holder

All grounds return to a single point. To simplify your install, run one heavy main ground to the Ford green screw under the dash to a bolt in your console - put all your radios and stuff to that bolt.

I've seen those Buss fuse holders melt during traffic stops with lightbars attached. But, you only have a couple flashers attached. You're probably okay. Forget I said anything.

We have found there to be problems with ground loops and more alternator noise when using a single ground in the console. I know of some shops who do it that way too.

The nice part about working with LEOs is most of them can't hear a lil alternator whine cuz of weapons practice. (grin)

Yeah - we've had some discussions about that in our shop. It all depends on the condition of the vehicle, wire gauge, and how good you are at crimping. You can get a return through the antenna leads from what ever surface they are mounted on, which may or may not be well grounded, which in turn return to the console through the radio mounting hardware. Or through the lightbar controller. Or the shotgun release. Or any number of points. It can get ugly. Most of the time it boils down to time and money - they don't want to take a car out of service for more than a couple days. The faster we get er done, the more way betterer they like it. We'll chase the uglies after it's in service.