tips for installation

jmr3865 · Post by **jmr3865** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 12:56 pm

Does anybody have any tips on installing radios, lights, sirens, etc. into vehicles? I am a newbie that this, first time!

Jay G. · Post by **Jay G.** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:12 pm

ya might need to be a BIT more specific!

jmr3865 · Post by **jmr3865** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:26 pm

fixed

bisho1p · Post by **bisho1p** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 7:23 pm

Measure, re-measure, measure again...(repeat to achieve maximum success.)

tvsjr · Post by **tvsjr** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:19 pm

Tip 1: If you have to ask how to do it, stop. Immediately. Take the vehicle and equipment to a professional installer, or get the help of a knowledgeable friend.

erchambers · Post by **erchambers** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 1:36 pm

tvsjr wrote:Tip 1: If you have to ask how to do it, stop. Immediately. Take the vehicle and equipment to a professional installer, or get the help of a knowledgeable friend.

ok, so there are a lot of people on here that do installs, why does he need to ask a professional when there are all of you guys here?? The man was asking for tips on first installs.....why can you just give him what he asks for rather than bring him down about it? And if you guys here are not considered "knowledgeable friends" then who is??

Eric

FFParamedic571 · Post by **FFParamedic571** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 2:20 pm

If you need anything ... Let me know.. .I have a bit of experience....say 15 yrs...

First what kind of vehicle.

Lights

Radio

Siren

antennas?

I will do my best to try to answer..

thebigphish · Post by **thebigphish** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:12 pm

Couple of tips off the hip

1) complete your shopping list

2) dry fit EVERYTHING

3) before you make something functionally permanent make sure everything around it functions (before you bolt that laptop mount into your passenger side floorwell, make sure that you can open the glovebox to pop the trunk if need be...for instance)

4) give yourself margin for error

5) expect it to fit on paper, and then have to be beaten into place because it doesn't fit quite so well in real life

commtek · Post by **commtek** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:15 pm

erchambers wrote:
tvsjr wrote:Tip 1: If you have to ask how to do it, stop. Immediately. Take the vehicle and equipment to a professional installer, or get the help of a knowledgeable friend.

ok, so there are a lot of people on here that do installs, why does he need to ask a professional when there are all of you guys here?? The man was asking for tips on first installs.....why can you just give him what he asks for rather than bring him down about it? And if you guys here are not considered "knowledgeable friends" then who is??

Eric

Cause I hate to see fire caused by Mother m class installations.....If you don't know what you're doing, take it to a professional!!

ESDA20 · Post by **ESDA20** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:24 pm

Or at least tell us what you're trying to install and in what so we have a better idea of how to provide direction...

FMROB · Post by **FMROB** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:55 pm

Since no one else gave an exact answer here are a few tips...

1) Use a blippin "antenna bit" to drill antenna holes in roofs. Do not use a uni bit, wood hole saw, or fan tail drill bit for this. Using a antenna hole saw will save you troubles of crappy holes, drilling thru head liners, getting proper ground, etc.

2) Always measure your roof out before drilling it. Use electrical tape to mark where the cross supports are so you can easily avoid drilling into them. Once you measure all the holes use a sharpie to put a dot where you are drilling. I always find placing the antenna over the dot (using old uhf or 800) 1/4 waves helps to see the alignment etc.

3) Whelen has it right, gauge your wire for 125% duty of you total amp draw of the electrical equipment you are installing. For example if your unit has a 10 gauge lead, don't use a 12 gauge primary wire to power it.

4) Always route wires clear of hot items, mechaincal items, etc. Use duct tape to lay wire flat under the carpet and in the door pillars so when you snap the vehicle back together you don't damage wires. It also keeps things neat under the carpet, drawback is :o to un install. Use gromets through fire walls.Sharp metal will cut wires=== fire.

5) Always ground you equipment properly. Scrap the paint away on metal, use star washers to get good ground. I like to as general practice seperate my lighting and radio grounds.

6) Always use fuses close to the power source. Good quality circuit breakers and water proof fuse holders are key.

7) Use good quality connectors. Do not use crimp caps, twist caps, or scotch locks. They suck.... Nylon butts, nylon ring terminals, etc. are good.

Check twice before drilling into a vehicle. There behind the metal lurks wires, gas tanks, heting and cooling lines etc. If you feel it will damage something verify before drilling, if not don't do it.

9) Keep wiring neat. Plan out what you are installing and use a heavy gauge lead for large installs i.e. 4 gaugefromt he battery to the console for a full radio and light package. Use a circuit breaker under the hood and fuse terminal blocks in the console or vehicle. Always keep it clean.

10) Don't use those shitty brass fuse taps which wrap around the leg of a fuse and push into the fuse block. They screw :o up, bad. Use the nifty "add-a-fuse" taps or accelle (from tessco) makes fuses with a small pig tails for adding on "low current" items to the fuse box. THis is good for ignition leads, hands free kits, led dash light, or running a relay for multiple igniton leads.

11) Use relays for switching big currents. Don't let the factory wiring do this. Relays are cheap, easy to install, and do a great job of managing large loads.

12) Use caution when tapping itno the vehicles "OEM" wiring. Small voltage or amperage differences in new vehicles can throw off factory options and computers. When in doubt, run your own.

13) Use a uni-bit for drilling 1" strobe holes. All other drill bits leave burs and and can rip apart the reflective lining insid the light.

14) There are alot of companys that offer install supplies. Buy the right stuff for the job. http://www.tessco.com, http://www.installationproducts.com/, hutton, etc.

Good Luck and ask questions. Installing is fun and I find it usually relaxing. But it can go bad quick if you are not careful. Rob

schlab · Post by **schlab** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:17 am

lots of tools

Max-trac · Post by **Max-trac** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 7:09 am

When you are done, TEST everything with as much running as you can for about 15 minutes,,,
IE All lights on, headlights on, 4-ways on, defroster fan on,
Wipers on etc....
This will simulate the worst case senario.
Then go around and check for hot spots in the wiring (don't burn yourself on the alternator). Check the battery voltage....
You may find fuse holders and joints that need to be upgraded...

kb0nly · Post by **kb0nly** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 10:28 am

Here's a tip, look through the "if you install like this Stop" post on this forum and see how NOT to install!

Seriously, i'm not kidding, looking at pictures of crappy installs will shock anyone into doing it the right way!

nmfire10 · Post by **nmfire10** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 11:25 am

Split Loom is your friend.

EVModules · Post by **EVModules** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 9:12 pm

"13) Use a uni-bit for drilling 1" strobe holes. All other drill bits leave burs and and can rip apart the reflective lining insid the light."

Amen! I abhor those 1" hole saws!

- Another main thing to do is STUDY the instructions you are installing!

It's provided for a reason and may help your installation.

- If you're not sure where to run the wiring, as a guideline, FOLLOW the factory wiring as the car engineers get paid plenty to design the best path for their wiring.

- DO NOT buy the cheapie split looms for the engine compartments, they will melt when close to the hot spots!

- Provide SERVICE LOOPS, wiring that are dressed to a component and given slack so in the event you need to look at the component, you can dismount, inspect, relocate a little, service, replace, etc.

- PLAN the install. It won't be fun if you keep forgetting to add a wire here & there. Plan things right to all components including to the fuseblock, grounds, etc.

- SECURE the components well. You really don't want a headache from a flying radio in an accident!

Create a safe zone around the occupants by avoiding sharp brackets, prodtruding accessories, bolted equipment. I bolt things at least 10 times the force, meaning it would take over 10 times the weight of the equipment for it to break loose.

- TEST everything before buttoning up the trim panels, installing the seats, etc. Saves the headache of taking it apart to find the problem. You can test a section for example, like the headlight flasher then buttoning up the front grill after verifying that it works before moving on to the next segment.

- When done drilling on the exterior, BLOW off the entire car to get rid of any metal shavings remaining unless you like the look of rust spots. Don't forget the gutter, door jamb areas. You may need to wipe down lightly with a dry towel to knock those tinier shavings that won't blow off. It helps to drill at a slower speed to keep flying metal shavings to a minimum.

- Install with this quote in mind,... "There's no such thing as stupid questions, only stupid mistakes!"

jeremycharris · Post by **jeremycharris** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:58 am

A couple small tips :

1: Never put tools in your back pocket. I saw a rookie rip the seat in a nice new Lexus that way.

2: Dont leave tools on the ground....self explanitory.

3: If you smoke or dip dont do it in the customers car.

4:Measure 10 times cut once...one hole in a gas tank or wire harness is as good as 10.

5: Use tools the way they were meant to be .........not everything can be a hammer.

tvsjr · Post by **tvsjr** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:09 am

jeremycharris wrote:3: If you smoke or dip dont do it in the customers car.

Don't do it in or *anywhere near* the customer's car. I have a thing about smoking... the smell will make me physically ill if forced to breathe it long enough (strange, structure and grass fires don't bother me). I despise it when some tech who happens to be a smoker works on one of my vehicles, leaving the smoky smell in the vehicle, even if he didn't light up while inside. Bleh.

jeremycharris · Post by **jeremycharris** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 1:03 pm

That was what I meant. We dont allow it in the bays. I have heard of careless people doing so and spilling dip cups in the car (techs or customers) and burning holes in seats.that reminds me ......dont leave tools on seats.....

apco25 · Post by **apco25** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 1:53 pm

a roll-away parts tray/cart keeps things neat and organized.

When their shop and work areas are organized, the gang over at OCC displays a good shop. Just substitute squads for bikes.

jmr3865 · Post by **jmr3865** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:28 pm

Thank you all for your suggestions so far, Also Would you rather take the seats out and take everything apart and then work on it and replace everything or would you rather do it piece by piece?

apco25 · Post by **apco25** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 6:18 am

All depends on what you're installing. I will often completely remove the front seats if it will make the job easier.

jeremycharris · Post by **jeremycharris** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:49 am

I agree, sometimes its easier to just gut everything.

tvsjr · Post by **tvsjr** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 10:12 am

Just make sure that, when you get done with your install, whatever you tore out will go back in!

(Yes, damnit, that's the voice of experience talking.

)