Batboard

Looking to install a simple alternating wig-wag flasher in my truck. Doesn't need to be fancy. I'm looking at the Code 3 Model 700. Am I right in understanding that most basic wig wags just turn on one high beam and then the other? If that's the case then I'd presume installation would be fairly simple?

Pretty much. What kind of vehicle do you have? That will tell you a lot more about how the installation is done.

I've always used Sound Off wig-wag flashers on my vehicles. They hold up really well and have a separate wire for sense (take +12 to the battery and sense to your switch) where some flashers like the Federals don't.

You'll also want to think about flash rate... if you have a 2-headlight system (standard and brights in one housing), I'd recommend a slower wig-wag, like the Sound Off Road Runner (1.9fps). If you have a 4-headlight system, I'd go with one of the faster flashers (~3fps).

I've got a Toyota Tacoma with a 2 headlight system. So, based on your recommendation, it would seem any flasher slower than 2 fps would do.

AFAIK my truck's got a negative ground system, so I should be good to go there.

Anything else I need to take into consideration??

yes... one with highbeam override is, in my vehicles, a must.

The Sound Off flashers do have high-beam override.

Assuming your Toyota is like a Ford, there a single wire that goes from the output of the bright switch to the left bulb, then continues over to the right. You cut the wire between the left and right bulbs, and splice the flasher in (I usually cut the wire and solder a nice loop of wire, which I then cut and splice to the flasher - makes the work easier and it's easier to reassemble when you get rid of the vehicle). The flasher has connections for left headlight, right headlight, A+, Gnd, and sense. Take A+ to the battery (fused), Gnd to frame ground, left to left, right to right, and sense to the output of your switch.

High-beam override is integrated - when the flasher senses +12 incoming from the left headlight, it stops flashing and allows the brights to operate normally.

YMMV, since you have a Toyota.

BE CAREFUL! If this is a newer Toyota and has DRL's, then a standard flasher will not work. You must use relays to disconnect all factory wiring and add the flasher in. The toyota DRL system changes the factory wiring to give +6v to each bulb in series. If one bulb is out, they both dont work. Adding a flasher to this will blow the module up. Sho-me makes a relay pack which is used in this application. It works well. I know they are available from RIM industries online, or you can use 4 relays yourself.

Be careful!

If I assume correctly that by DRL you mean daytime running lights, then no, I do not have these.

Yes, correct. Based on that, you should use a standard ground side flasher. Either a whelen UHF2150a or a sho-me ground sided flasher will work. The code3 700 or 710 flashers are positve only and will not work.

good luck!

I've got a 2000 Toyota Tacoma without DRL and I have not been able to find anyone that has a flasher that is compatable with this vehicle. I have a whelen UHF2150 that provides wiring for both positive and negative ground switching systems. I eneded up using aux driving lights mounted in a brush guard with the flasher..... I still wish I could find something to make the vehicles headlights flash so I can get rid of the aux lights.....

Larry,

I'm a little confused. Did you try and install your Whelen flasher in your Tacoma and it didn't work with the headlights? Was it wiring issues?

Yes, I tried wiring the headlights. And after hooking the flasher up to the highbeam circuit the headlights did not work, neither hi or lo beams worked. I tried all possible leads to the headlight connector with no luck.

I have several accessory lights that I use the high beam circuit for powering relays for off-road lights, so I know I have the high beam circuit, but when I tried putting a headlight flasher in the truck the headlights wouldn't work.

I'm not sure about the Tacoma, but some headlight systems need the lowbeams to be on for it to work. This may be one of them. If this is the case, use my 4 relay trick. It works every time.

I installed a Whelen UHF 2150 headlight flasher and wired it exactly as instructed for Neg (-) swithced headlights. The headlights work just as they did in stock form, both hi and low beams work and function properly with the flasher installed. The headlight flasher will only flash the hi beams when the low beams are on. Is there any trick to wire the flasher so that the hi beams will flash without having to turn on my headlights?

Some of the chevy's operate in a similar manner with the DRLs. The swtich provides the + to the DRL, but then the DRLs provide the - to the lowbeam which provides the + back to the high beams (or something like that...its really funky).

When in doubt, your screwed.

I've yet to understand the point of all these goofy wiring schemes.

Engineer just want to drive mechanics and equipment installers insane?

Heres what I do.

Easiest way I can explain it: You need to isolate the headlights from the truck wiring. I will see if I can draw something up, but for now let me try to explain:

Use one relay for each of the following: left Pos, left neg, right pos, right neg. Relay should be used to switch between CAR original wiring and FLASHER wiring to the lights. The "common" from each relay goes to the BULB. The "normally closed" portion of the relay goes to the factory wiring from the car. What this will do, is when the relay is NOT powered, the headlights will operate as normal. the "normally open" portion of the relay will get wired as following for EACH side: One from each side gets POSITIVE and one from each side gets FLASHER output. By doing this, you are basically bypassing the OEM wiring and giving the bulbs what they need.

Check out this link: http://www.able2products.com/PDFs/03_W5 ... ctions.pdf

It is a commerically made product by sho-me, and does exactly this.


I use it on any car which a "standard" HLF kit wont work. DONT TRY THIS WITH HID HIGHBEAMS. IT WILL NOT WORK AND WILL DESTROY THE CAR!!!

Similar thread i will quote, because my comments are the same for this one

I wrote:considering it is not a vehicle that would be run in an emergency vehicle capacity very often, it is very unlikely that anyone will have a plug and play part for it...

..and after a couple of minutes of thinking about it, i think the 2 relay trick WOULD work, however...you also have to consider what that would do to your vehicle PCM, flash-to-pass circut, highbeam on situations,etc.... not to mention, that in order for this to work, you would need a diode in there for the highbeam circut, you would need 4 relays (2 per head), and that many moving pieces in a headlight warning lamp system seems like a little overkill...(not to mention those bosch relays firing at the same rate as the headlight flasher would sound like a drum riff being played on your hood).

eh, it could work...lots of potential issues i can see in it, and maybe not as much benefit for the amount of work it would take.

I have a 98 Ford Explorer with galls wig wag kit--works great.

Be Safe

Another common thing that Jay G. said was isolating the left and right headlights. otherwise, the flasher will get really confused, and try to flash and override itself at the same time. I usually use the Code-3 7 series flashers, as they can be easily replaced or removed if neccessary. they have exposed terminals, so protect them from weather. I usually use battery terminal protectant, in minimal ammounts. Many HF units do different patterns, like the Whelen UHF POS or NEG. The COde-3 711 and 712 will do 2 patterns, signified by mode 1 and 2. If you're really slick, set it up so mode 2 overrides mode 1.