DC Power Surge Protection

[WCHija]

I am looling for a DC surge protector I can plug in to my patrol cars DC outlet. Some of us have had our cell phones and other personal electronics mysteriously die, with the only common link being the DC outlet in the car. We drive a different car every day and work 12 hour shifts so a moveable protector would be best, and due to the length of our shifts the ability to charge our cell phones is important.

Thanks

[Bill_G]

I've used Powerstream dc/dc converters with good success to flatten out 12v systems that range from 6 to 16v depending on the state of the batteries, alternator, and what accessories are running. These are not battery backup systems used by some mobile data systems. They are real switching buck-boost power supplies that accept a range of input and provide a steady output to protect your equipment. Prices aren't bad either.

http://www.powerstream.com/dc-buck-boost.htm



You may have to break out a soldering iron and fab your own connectors to fit your application.

And for those interested in rolling your own solutions, Linear Technologies makes a whole series of buck-boost regulators that will simplify your design.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIYyGeLl128

[motorola_otaku]

Question: is this off a factory cigarette lighter plug or one the radio shop put in with the radio kit? Also, CVPI, Impala, Charger, or..? Reason I ask is, don't trust the wiring if they were put in aftermarket - I have seen some scary console wiring done by local municipal shops that would cause all sorts of under-voltage and ground loop conditions that could potentially toast a cell phone charger.

Also, don't use aftermarket garbage accessories with your phones - use OEM chargers. Cheap knockoff chargers may not have any regulators in them at all, maybe only a resistor or two to drop 12V down to something approaching what the phone requires.

[WCHija]

These are aftermarket DC outlets our radio shop put in. I am sure they did a good job of installing them. I think the problem is power fluctuations when starting and turning off the car from all the equipment we are running.

I still have not found a workable solution for this.

[Bill_G]

I gave you one. I have hundeds in service, and they knocked our data system resets after engine crank to zero. I haven't had a power related problem in years.

[WCHija]

I looked at that. I looked like it would be hard to drag from car to car.

[Bill_G]

Wander through their site. They have more portable versions with cig lighter pigtails on them. The thing I liked the most about their products is I only had to buy it once.

[WCHija]

I will look again. I did not see those the first time. Thank you

[resqguy911]

Try this: http://www.newmarpower.com/DC_Power_Con ... oners.html


Quite a few manufacturers factory 12V sockets and other electronics are disconnected from power during cranking to prevent this phenomenon. Watch what happens to your radio and etc when you turn the key. Turning the key past RUN opens certain relays at the same time it trips the starter solenoid. Why not run your 12vdc equipment directly off the factory circuit, or use it to control a relay to take advantage of this protection?

[WCHija]

I don't control how they do the installs. And after all the equipment goes in you can't get to the factory dc outlet.

[Bill_G]

I love Newmar gear. Their railroad 70-12v isolated converters can't be beat. But, this series of converters are a maintenance hassle because of the internal battery. They only last about a year (if that), and then the batteries need to be replaced. And of course, they are conveniently mounted for easy service (wink). It is true that 95% of vehicles turn off their ignition and accy lines during crank helping to preserve other equipment, and we have used that feature to open a relay supplying power to very sensitive things. But, in these days of MDT's, people don't want to lose their login every time they start the engine, or run a high power accessory with the engine off. And we don't want to lose equipment tied to battery. We tried the Newmar and several similar products, but ran into the brick wall of their battery dying. So, back in 1997 I made regulators based on Linear Technologies chips and app notes. They worked great, but I wasn't prepared to manufacture a few thousand of them for every vehicle needing one. I found a solar power products guy that makes a solid device, but he has availability issues. I found an auto racing products company that makes high current devices that are solid, expensive, and huge, but they work all the way down to 3v input and still provide 13.8V out. I reserve those for special applications. Then I found Powerstream. They have a broad product selection from low current to high current boxes that work down to 6V without hiccuping or throwing off emi that desenses receivers. I've used them to power a 5W SCADA radio at the end of 1200ft of four strand 24G phone line. Amazing stuff. Lots of applications.

[EPC_1111]

There was a guy in the Bradley/Paso Robles area making awesome power cleaners until recently. If you ask nicely they guys in the comm shop may have a few lying around. They look like a plastic box inside of a piece of aluminum bent into a U shape with mounting tabs. In about 10 minutes you can set one up in a project box with a few cigar plugs you can keep in your patrol bag.

Shoot me an email if you wind up not having any luck.